Pelicano have been roasting in Brighton since 2014, and the Hove cafe is the retail end of a serious wholesale operation. The baristas know the product because it's theirs, and they'll say something if you reach for the sugar.

The brunch draws the room; the coffee is good enough to order on its own terms. An earl grey latte with espresso on the menu is the kind of detail that separates a considered drinks list from an afterthought.

A seasonal kitchen in Hove with Red Roaster coffee on the side. Food leads; the coffee is worth having.